Month: March 2020

  • March 29, 2020


    As I am kind of active on Recalbox community, I needed a small setup that fits on my desk to be able to make some tests to answer questions. So I decided to build a “desktop” Recalbox. HARDWARE_ The hardware is pretty simple :  – A raspberry Pi3B – A 5 inch HDMI 800×480 screen – HDMI connector – Some small screws Don’t forget averything you need to make it work (5V 3A power supply , SD card).You can find the screen at “Bangalibest”. 3D PRINTED PARTS_ The frame is made up of :  – 2 pieces for the frame – 2 pieces for the case – 1 piece for the support You can find the STL here. These STLs are FREE ! But you can help me buying materials to make more stuff here ! Everything is simple to build. We start to put the screen on the frame. Then we install the case behind the screen and insert the PI on the case. Beware to align  correctly the GPIO pins in the GPIO slot from the screen. The two HDMI ports has to be aligned face to face. Close the case, put everything on the support and TADAAAA, you’re done. About 10mn of work. CONFIGURATION_ To get the screen to work correctly, you’ll have to change some lines on the config.txt. You can open a terminal and type : sudo nano /boot/config.txt or connect in SSH via putty to modify the file directly. Then you’ll have to change the following lines : disable_overscan=0 # uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)hdmi_group=2hdmi_mode=1hdmi_mode=87hdmi_cvt=800 480 60 6 0 0 0 CONCLUSION_ This is a fast and effective build, if your desk is like mine, with tons of stuff on it. I did not configured the touch screen because I’m using it as a retrogame station under Recalbox. But...
  • March 19, 2020

    Ortur Laser Upgrade_EN

    I just got the 7W Ortur laser. Well, 7W are big words, because this is for the consumption, not the engraving power … It seems to be around 2000mW … or how to play with words to make  sales … The frame_ First thing to do is changing the frame, fortunately, this is a pretty simple frame, which will define the working area. And it’s made with aluminium profiles 40*20 and 20*20. Pretty handy, these are the ones you can find on most of chinese 3D printers. So go shopping at “bangalibest” and here it is ! For my project, I bought one 40cm long 40*20 profile and one 50cm long 20*20 profile. The laser is mounted on the 20*20, the 40*20 carries the steppers. The hard thing was to tap the threads for the supports. I don’t know if tapping threads by hand is hard or that’s because I’m a noob but I had hard times to do it. It works but the thread is not perfect. I’m making a second version that doesn’t need tapping threads, it will use V-slots to make it waaaaay easier. Supports_ I modeled those supports to print them. To make it simpler I scanned them with my desktop scanner/printer. Pretty handy. Once they were scanned I vectorized them, then extruded. I needed to make them bigger to avoid balancing while the new frame is much bigger. Here is the STL . As I mentionned, a second version is on the way to avoid thread tapping. Belt_ It uses a GT2 Belt. This is the belt you will find on every chinese printer, so you will easily find them at “bangalibest”. For this project I bought 2m, just to be sure I don’t miss some. To connect the ends, I found the perfect clip on Thingiverse. You have to be...